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Pallavi Mohan is the founder and designer of the brand; Not So Serious, launched in 2007. After studying Art at Camberwell College of Art & Design and Textile Design at Chelsea College of Art & Design in London, she began her career within India’s export and manufacturing ecosystem, gaining an inside understanding of how Indian craftsmanship operates within the global fashion industry. That experience continues to shape her approach to design and authorship.
With Not So Serious, Pallavi has blurred the lines between Indian craft and modern dressing, placing technique, textures and individuality at the heart of her work. Her approach reflects a wider shift in fashion, one where craft is not simply preserved, but continually reinterpreted.
Pallavi Mohan -I think the big trend is long gone and I am actually happy about that..
In the past everyone followed very similar dressing habit, but now people experiment. You can wear a kaftan with slim trousers and a structured cape and make a lasting impression
The question is no longer “what is in style” it is “What is you”.
I’ve always said that fashion will become more individualistic over time and that’s exactly what we’re seeing today. One more big change is the speed at which fashion travels.
A style showcased at Milan runway can be seen on a phone in Guwahati in a matter of few minutes, which is great but it can also make things feel less meaningful. When everyone sees the same image at the same time it loses its visual impact. Over exposure makes it less exciting and the only form of art that can survive this, is the one that’s made with true intentions and effort.
Fueled By Fashion - How do you develop a distinctive point of view for your own brand Not So Serious and not lose originality in so much noise and blurring lines?
Pallavi Mohan - For me it’s always been about being true to what I genuinely believe in, and not let trends decide the path for me..
During my initial years as a designer I worked for various fashion houses like Cavalli, Gaultier, Galliano and Valentino to name a few... and during that time I taught myself the art of restrain…
Over time I realized just because you can access something, doesn’t mean you own it. Anyone can download references of work that I do, but not everyone can do something unique with it. Hence my filter is never about what’s trending at the moment, it’s always about what feels natural to me as an artist…
When I see a reference I always ask myself if it can survive my touch and ideas and most of the time it does not, and that is what makes my point of view distinctive.
Fueled By Fashion - Your Brand, Not So Serious has always explored the space between Indian craft and modern dressing. How has that design philosophy evolved since you started your label?
Pallavi Mohan - Interestingly the name for my brand ‘Not So Serious’ came from my dear friends who teased me for being too serious about my work.
When I started my brand back in 2007, I wanted to prove that Indian artistry can be used in garments without making it look like an over the top costume. Back then people defined style to be either Indian or modern, but now that notion has changed..
We see craft as a beautiful medium of story telling and not merely as a decoration.
The designing process in my atelier starts with texture and technique as the main focus point…which then proceeds on to building various pieces around it.
During the manufacturing process of my clothes I also think about the carbon footprint being left behind and that thought led me to build India’s first green factories… Keeping the fun and whimsy spirit of my designs still very much intact, but also building on the much needed foundation of sustainability.
Fueled By Fashion - In an era of trends and constant visual influence, what makes personal style stand out in all this?
Pallavi Mohan - For me personal style is all about editing out the unnecessary noise. Just because you have access to everything doesn’t mean you have to wear all of it...
It’s also about knowing what you like, what you simply don’t, and having the confidence to say no. My designs are for women who know who they are and what they want and don’t get swayed to follow every trend that comes out every season to feel good about themselves..
Sometimes a trend can be a way to hide, but a point of view is what makes you stand out.
When you wear a garment or design that feels like you, you automatically feel confident and more like yourself in it . That’s exactly what I think good clothing job is..
Fueled By Fashion - We’ve recently seen a lot of interest in Indian craft, be it from Prada’s Kolhapuri-inspired sandals to Dior’s use of Indian textiles and Jaipur jewellery in its couture show. How can India turn this interest into greater visibility and opportunity for its artisans and budding designers?
Pallavi Mohan - Firstly we need to acknowledge the past patterns.
Indian craft has always been used by luxury brands for decades without getting the credit it truly deserves.
I know this from my experience while working with European designers. They would buy embroidery and stitch their own label on and sell it. The skill was very much Indian but the credit and the money were not.
Now we see brands like Prada and Dior using Indian craft and material and giving due credit which is a good thing… we need to make sure that Indian artisans and designers get the acknowledgment and the payment they rightfully deserve.
As an industry we need to move from being just suppliers to being the authors and presenters, that means building our own infrastructure and telling our own stories.
Fueled By Fashion - Lastly, after all these years what still excites you about fashion? And what do you believe fashion should ultimately make us feel?
We would love to thank Pallavi Mohan for sharing her thoughts and experiences with us and radiating her positive attitude and smile. Its truly inspiring to know your story and understanding that being Not So serious is actually the right way of being serious.
Team Fueled By Fashion
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